Let’s Make Clothing! Tutorial thread. Shoes too!

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Comments

  • RAMWolffRAMWolff Posts: 10,212
    edited December 1969

    OK.. that worked. I found that the brush does "bleed" into other areas. I chose the brush next to it (Smoothing) and that seems to turn the area blue again but not very fast. I tried Shift and Ctrl to "erase" the unwanted red areas but that didn't seem to work.

    I also notice that when moving the body around the shoulder tips still temporarily bend down so not sure if there is a way to lock them into a stiff position at all times. If someone where to use this for animation I fear it might look really ugly.

  • SickleYieldSickleYield Posts: 7,634
    edited December 1969

    Check the bulge groups?

  • RAMWolffRAMWolff Posts: 10,212
    edited December 1969

    Found where the bulge maps are. I went into the Lock tab and tried locking the L and R Shoulder and L and R Collar but that didn't do the trick!

  • SickleYieldSickleYield Posts: 7,634
    edited December 1969

    Locking often won't. Select the verts in each bulge group that is causing trouble and fill with 0%. You can select the verts from the Polygon Group Editor Tool. The tab will show a list of the groups with eyes and plus and minus signs next to them (controlling visibility, selection, deselection.)

  • RAMWolffRAMWolff Posts: 10,212
    edited December 1969

    I'm sorry to be such a bother. I'm in the Polygon Group Editor. I see Face Groups, Surfaces, Regions. I see in the Face Groups the lCollar andd rCollar so I assume this is the section. "Fill with Zero" ... how do I do that. :red:

  • SickleYieldSickleYield Posts: 7,634
    edited December 1969

    RAMWolff said:
    I'm sorry to be such a bother. I'm in the Polygon Group Editor. I see Face Groups, Surfaces, Regions. I see in the Face Groups the lCollar andd rCollar so I assume this is the section. "Fill with Zero" ... how do I do that. :red:

    NP, I'm sorry for being unclear (and sorry for hijacking Patience's thread, feel free to jump in any time).


    Select the rCollar vertices by clicking the plus sign next to them.

    Go back to the weight brush and the tool tab.

    Select an interfering bulge group (probably from the shoulder z bulge, try those first).

    Right click. Choose "fill selected faces."

    Set the dialogue that comes up to 0% and click Ok.


    Bulge groups have to be manually emptied in these cases because the program allows painting to a bone to exceed 100% where the bulge groups are concerned.

  • RAMWolffRAMWolff Posts: 10,212
    edited December 1969

    Hiya,

    Sorry Patience. Hopefully others can make use of this information.

    So I did as you instructed. Still no joy. I went into the Polygon Selection tool. Selected both the lCollar and rCollar and then back into the Weight Map Brush area and right clicked directly on the vest and chose Fill Selected Faces. Set to Zero and then tried posing Genesis again. The same issue is persistent. There is a lShoulder and a rShoulder but in the Polygon Joint Editor they are not listed. It stops with the Collars. If I click on the Joint Editor is does show the Shoulder bones there though. With the weight mapping in place do you think it's safe to delete these bones at this point without the vest crumpling when posing Genesis??

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  • RAMWolffRAMWolff Posts: 10,212
    edited December 1969

    Nope, not good. Just tried that. Vest crumples when posing and the pops into place when the pose is finished.

  • SickleYieldSickleYield Posts: 7,634
    edited December 1969

    That's an artifact of the process, I think. Save to library as another name after you delete the bones and reload and see if it has the same problem.

  • RAMWolffRAMWolff Posts: 10,212
    edited December 1969

    You just made my day. Your right. Must have been some sort of an artifact. Saved the altered with deleted bones vest and genesis into a new file. Shut down DS all the way and brought up the new file and posed Genesis and it works as expected. Odd behavior but maybe DAZ will fix this eventually. THANKS so much!

  • SickleYieldSickleYield Posts: 7,634
    edited December 1969

    RAMWolff said:
    You just made my day. Your right. Must have been some sort of an artifact. Saved the altered with deleted bones vest and genesis into a new file. Shut down DS all the way and brought up the new file and posed Genesis and it works as expected. Odd behavior but maybe DAZ will fix this eventually. THANKS so much!

    No problem!


    I've had the issue consistently through about three updates now, so I wouldn't hold my breath, but it would be nice. ;)

  • RAMWolffRAMWolff Posts: 10,212
    edited December 1969

    Yea, we all love DAZ but sometimes.... they gotta stop smoking that funny stuff when coding! :P

  • RAMWolffRAMWolff Posts: 10,212
    edited December 1969

    I have a UV Mapping question...

    Now that I've gotten the vest completed I looked over the UV Map, it's OK, just OK. I've put in around 20 morphs via ZBrush and saved this out as a duf file for Wardrobe so it's done but then I really wanted to take this into UV Mapper Pro and see if I can improve on the UV's. Will I have to start all over again with the morphs or what do I do to make sure and not loose them? I mean this is created in really two programs. It's not even saved as an obj in the end so just seems like what I've got is what I got.

  • SickleYieldSickleYield Posts: 7,634
    edited February 2013

    RAMWolff said:
    I have a UV Mapping question...

    Now that I've gotten the vest completed I looked over the UV Map, it's OK, just OK. I've put in around 20 morphs via ZBrush and saved this out as a duf file for Wardrobe so it's done but then I really wanted to take this into UV Mapper Pro and see if I can improve on the UV's. Will I have to start all over again with the morphs or what do I do to make sure and not loose them? I mean this is created in really two programs. It's not even saved as an obj in the end so just seems like what I've got is what I got.

    Load the one with the good morphs and rigging, rename it RIG by double-clicking its name in the scene tab. Load the obj with the new UV you did in UVmapper pro or wherever. Use transfer utility to transfer from the old to the new. Delete RIG and save the new one back to library in exactly the same place. it will have the new rigging and will pick up the morphs since their folder location hasn't changed.


    Now I wish you'd started this in a new thread. Can a mod split off this part of the discussion so we don't clutter up Patient's ongoing tutorial?

    Post edited by SickleYield on
  • patience55patience55 Posts: 7,006
    edited December 1969

    RAMWolff said:
    I have a UV Mapping question...

    Now that I've gotten the vest completed I looked over the UV Map, it's OK, just OK. I've put in around 20 morphs via ZBrush and saved this out as a duf file for Wardrobe so it's done but then I really wanted to take this into UV Mapper Pro and see if I can improve on the UV's. Will I have to start all over again with the morphs or what do I do to make sure and not loose them? I mean this is created in really two programs. It's not even saved as an obj in the end so just seems like what I've got is what I got.

    Load the one with the good morphs and rigging, rename it RIG by double-clicking its name in the scene tab. Load the obj with the new UV you did in UVmapper pro or wherever. Use transfer utility to transfer from the old to the new. Delete RIG and save the new one back to library in exactly the same place. it will have the new rigging and will pick up the morphs since their folder location hasn't changed.


    Now I wish you'd started this in a new thread. Can a mod split off this part of the discussion so we don't clutter up Patient's ongoing tutorial?

    Oh no! I love having all kinds of stuff in "our" thread. I'm learning lots too :-)

    I post links into this thread ... and out from it, sort of building a little web system lol ... as long as the main drift is for "Making Clothing", I'm kool.

  • patience55patience55 Posts: 7,006
    edited December 1969

    RAMWolff said:
    Hi Patience,

    Thanks for the work flow. Not mine though sorry to say. I did figure it all out though so in case anyone is using ZBrush - Hex - Genesis - DAZ Studio here we go.

    Finish your detailing in ZB, save as an OBJ. Switch over to DS. Load up Genesis, keep in T formation. Leave shape at default. Then File>Import>Obj. When the import dialog comes up in the percentage box type in 2550, the area above that will switch to "Custom" and the Save Preset button will light up. Name that ZBrush Native Import since that seems to bring it in at Genesis sized. It will be on the floor so use the translation tool to move it up and position it in place. I used the Scale dials to fix any poking out. Then went to the Edit tools found in the fly out menu in the Scene tab. I converted to Triax weight mapping and then use the Transfer tool to conform it to Genesis:

    Source: Genesis | Choose "Current" in the "Item Shape" drop down
    Target: Item to be transferred | Leave "Item Shape" at "Default"
    Projection Template: I chose Shirt>Tight since it was a vest.
    Click "Show Options" and leave it all as it is but check off the "Reverse Source Shape from Target" option. The reason why I said to choose "Current" for Genesis is that this box is un-selectable unless you have SOMETHING selected in the Source "Item Shape" drop down.

    Run the script and it's done. Now I'm trying to figure out how to freeze the shoulder bones in the vest since when Genesis puts it's arms up or down the tips of the vest follow along and it looks kinda bad. Any solutions to this area you can provide me with??

    Thanks!

    Glad you found a way that works and thanks for posting it too.
    I actually buzzed by the Zbrush website today ... taxes first, whimper.
    Is it "easy" to uvmap AND unfold it in Zbrush?

  • patience55patience55 Posts: 7,006
    edited December 1969

    ... edit ... (and sorry for hijacking Patience's thread, feel free to jump in any time).
    ...

    Please, I don't consider this hijacking ... it's about making clothing and you are more than welcome to post in it.

    I did get a change to try the Morph Loader Pro again ... and I don't know, but this time it worked. And somethings were working that didn't before so now I'm thinking that another thing that had to be done for whatever reason, was simply to close and re-open D/S.

    I don't have any image sets to post this weekend. Am thinking over a few ideas as to what to cover next.

    Adding morphs to clothing in D/S4.x ... when I get the pathway down pat.
    Legacy rigging clothing ... that would take a little longer to put together however some are working on items for M3/M4.
    Another uniform from the list.

  • SickleYieldSickleYield Posts: 7,634
    edited December 1969

    ... edit ... (and sorry for hijacking Patience's thread, feel free to jump in any time).
    ...

    Please, I don't consider this hijacking ... it's about making clothing and you are more than welcome to post in it.

    I did get a change to try the Morph Loader Pro again ... and I don't know, but this time it worked. And somethings were working that didn't before so now I'm thinking that another thing that had to be done for whatever reason, was simply to close and re-open D/S.

    I don't have any image sets to post this weekend. Am thinking over a few ideas as to what to cover next.

    Adding morphs to clothing in D/S4.x ... when I get the pathway down pat.
    Legacy rigging clothing ... that would take a little longer to put together however some are working on items for M3/M4.
    Another uniform from the list.

    I would suggest another thread for Gen 3 and 4 - that's a lot of material to cover and there's almost no overlap.

  • patience55patience55 Posts: 7,006
    edited February 2013

    ... edit ... (and sorry for hijacking Patience's thread, feel free to jump in any time).
    ...

    Please, I don't consider this hijacking ... it's about making clothing and you are more than welcome to post in it.

    I did get a change to try the Morph Loader Pro again ... and I don't know, but this time it worked. And somethings were working that didn't before so now I'm thinking that another thing that had to be done for whatever reason, was simply to close and re-open D/S.

    I don't have any image sets to post this weekend. Am thinking over a few ideas as to what to cover next.

    Adding morphs to clothing in D/S4.x ... when I get the pathway down pat.
    Legacy rigging clothing ... that would take a little longer to put together however some are working on items for M3/M4.
    Another uniform from the list.

    I would suggest another thread for Gen 3 and 4 - that's a lot of material to cover and there's almost no overlap.

    Right. Good idea ...

    Edit to add: And I mustn't forget to mention there's this lovely new product for those seeking to do conversions:
    http://www.daz3d.com/sickle-rigging-and-morphing-system :-)

    Post edited by patience55 on
  • SickleYieldSickleYield Posts: 7,634
    edited December 1969

    You are a nice lady. ;)

  • patience55patience55 Posts: 7,006
    edited December 1969

    krosbones said:
    Hello, I am still new at this and have some questions. I hope this is the right place to post them.

    I recently bought the "Classic Bikini Tutorial" from DAZ ( saw someone on here refer it as a good tut).
    It was a very good tutorial teaching me a lot of different tools in Hex.
    The problem I am having is that it did not seem complete. He went over everything to model the clothing, UV map and fit it onto Genesis.
    But I am lost on a few parts.
    What do you do with the UV maps? (he just stacked them on top of each other and said he would get back to that later...is that another tut I have to buy?)

    That's interesting. I have no idea. I know I didn't recommend it as I do not have that product. As I recall he has a few videos over at Youtube.com.

    To deal with overlap, somehow get them not overlapping [use the empty space to help sort them out if need be]. Assign "shading domains" to each section. THEN you can overlap them on the CheckerT "unless" you're planning to market items, then it is preferable/mandatory to not overlap sections.


    How do you save the clothing items to use in DAZ? Do you have to import the OBJ in everytime you want to use them? Then go through the whole transfer utility each time?


    Either back in one of this thread's pages, or over in my tutorials posted in my Boudicca36 gallery, I did cover 'saving' the clothing item.
    After you've done the transfer utility bit ... File > Save as > Support Asset > [figure/prop] [minor variances between 4.0 and 4.5].
    Very important that in the scene you have the new clothing item selected, NOT Genesis ;-)
    And save it to its proper place. We cannot rearrange their places after creation if we want the files to work.
    For eg.: My Library > People > Genesis > Clothing > subfolder(s) ...


    I am just getting back into using DAZ and Hex. I used to "play" with them a few years ago. Spent a lot of money to buy stuff for V4. Now that I am getting back into it. I can not find any tuts on creating for V4...everyone is using this Genesis (which I don't care for...yet)
    What happened to all of the tutorials on making clothes for V4?...all of my links are dead...and all of the products I have for V4 don't work the best on Genesis.

    The old forum was 'archived' ... more info for finding the threads is posted here.


    Thanks for all of the useful info in this thread.....I learned quite a bit just reading through...too many pages to read all right now LOL.

    You're welcome.

  • RAMWolffRAMWolff Posts: 10,212
    edited December 1969

    Glad you found a way that works and thanks for posting it too.
    I actually buzzed by the Zbrush website today ... taxes first, whimper.
    Is it "easy" to uvmap AND unfold it in Zbrush?

    Thanks for your blessing on my questions and SY's answer party. I'm glad we are all using one thread as it keeps the information flowing regardless of the program.

    As much as I LOVE ZBrush the UV mapping ... not understanding how it's done quite yet. I did find a UV Mapper program I think I'll enjoy:

    http://www.unwrap3d.com/u3d/index.aspx

    I made my first pair of booties today but need to UV Map them. I also need to figure out how to get a heel on it. I tried in ZBrush but it was a bust. I'm still learning how to start new layers in 3D modeling programs and always have to keep telling myself to turn off the main figure so I'm not distracted. I just couldn't find a ready made shape in ZB that would work. Tried a cylinder and it looked pretty bad by the time I was through with it. I'm more of an organic modeler so getting sharp edges is something I need to work at more.

    I'm building a super hero character that I loved growing up named Chameleon Boy from the Legion of Super Heroes.

    Full body and face morphs are done.
    Skin and 2nd skin are about done (render shown below).
    I have the vest made, he has antennae, those are made with movement morphs and now the boots.

    Got the base of the gloves done too.

    But yea, need to slow down and figure out the UV Mapping bits so it's something I will be really proud of.

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  • patience55patience55 Posts: 7,006
    edited December 1969

    RAMWolff said:

    Glad you found a way that works and thanks for posting it too.
    I actually buzzed by the Zbrush website today ... taxes first, whimper.
    Is it "easy" to uvmap AND unfold it in Zbrush?

    Thanks for your blessing on my questions and SY's answer party. I'm glad we are all using one thread as it keeps the information flowing regardless of the program.

    As much as I LOVE ZBrush the UV mapping ... not understanding how it's done quite yet. I did find a UV Mapper program I think I'll enjoy:

    http://www.unwrap3d.com/u3d/index.aspx

    I made my first pair of booties today but need to UV Map them. I also need to figure out how to get a heel on it. I tried in ZBrush but it was a bust. I'm still learning how to start new layers in 3D modeling programs and always have to keep telling myself to turn off the main figure so I'm not distracted. I just couldn't find a ready made shape in ZB that would work. Tried a cylinder and it looked pretty bad by the time I was through with it. I'm more of an organic modeler so getting sharp edges is something I need to work at more.

    I'm building a super hero character that I loved growing up named Chameleon Boy from the Legion of Super Heroes.

    Full body and face morphs are done.
    Skin and 2nd skin are about done (render shown below).
    I have the vest made, he has antennae, those are made with movement morphs and now the boots.

    Got the base of the gloves done too.

    But yea, need to slow down and figure out the UV Mapping bits so it's something I will be really proud of.

    Oh he looks cute :-)

    Thanks for the link. That's one I haven't tried yet and I have just the uniform to test it with.

  • patience55patience55 Posts: 7,006
    edited December 1969

    Yes, sharp edges! That's something I fail to comprehend why in the world the model doesn't just stay looking the way we made it!

    However a few strategically placed tessellation lines makes a world of difference.

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  • RAMWolffRAMWolff Posts: 10,212
    edited December 1969

    Hmm... I'll give that try this weekend for sure. Looks like a handy bit of information. Thanks so much! :-)

  • patience55patience55 Posts: 7,006
    edited December 1969

    You're welcome. :-)

  • Tramp GraphicsTramp Graphics Posts: 2,411
    edited December 1969

    I have a question that may not have been covered yet. I've been talking with SickleYield about making a man's Victorian style formal Opera cloak with collar, lapels, and capelet, and I could really use the help from someone who has actually made fully rigged full circle cloaks. The design I have in mind drapes over the arms completely at least over the upper arms, and as per our discussion, would need to be rigged to the collar at the very least, but to no more than the shoulder bones, and then use handles and morphs for the rest, neither of which I have any experience with.

    As for modelling it initially, I was thinking of starting with a sphere primitive cut in half at the equator, then flattening said hemisphere into a disk. Attached are images of the cloak I have in mind as well as two similar cloaks (which are basically what mine is a combination of). This is a garment which, if I can get right, is something I may actually want to release for potential sale (Chohole herself said she'd "pay good money" for a cloak like it. So it sounds like there could be a market for it, and I have not found anything even remotely like it, just medieval style hooded cloaks.

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  • patience55patience55 Posts: 7,006
    edited February 2013

    I have a question that may not have been covered yet. I've been talking with SickleYield about making a man's Victorian style formal Opera cloak with collar, lapels, and capelet, and I could really use the help from someone who has actually made fully rigged full circle cloaks. The design I have in mind drapes over the arms completely at least over the upper arms, and as per our discussion, would need to be rigged to the collar at the very least, but to no more than the shoulder bones, and then use handles and morphs for the rest, neither of which I have any experience with.

    As for modelling it initially, I was thinking of starting with a sphere primitive cut in half at the equator, then flattening said hemisphere into a disk. Attached are images of the cloak I have in mind as well as two similar cloaks (which are basically what mine is a combination of). This is a garment which, if I can get right, is something I may actually want to release for potential sale (Chohole herself said she'd "pay good money" for a cloak like it. So it sounds like there could be a market for it, and I have not found anything even remotely like it, just medieval style hooded cloaks.

    Yes I would also think that this would be a popular item. Can see several characters it would be great for.

    I'm not the experienced person you're seeking to answer this so hopefully somebody will come by who is and reply.

    Some of the information you need is covered in the rigging tutorials [both those for purchase and those online].
    For eg. Rigging Original Figures covers creating bones and applying weight to them.
    Both the online long skirt tutorial in the forum archive and Genesis Basic Clothing Rig Kit cover information about ghost bones and handles.
    And over on Youtube there are some Daz3d videos for dealing with the Rigidity maps and other fun stuff.

    I hope that perhaps you might make some "how to" screenshots along the way while working on the cape.
    It's a great way to, for starters, remember for the 2nd cape, what works and what doesn't.
    And of course, I think many people would like to know the answers as well.
    And tutorials do not lose customers. I've found they tend to make a few more. Because when people see and/or realize how much work goes into an item, that $6 or whatever looks REAL GOOD as people's time tends to be worth money too. I don't know anybody whose weekly salary is $6.

    edit: For modeling, I'd be tempted to start something like that with the cylinder.

    Post edited by patience55 on
  • Tramp GraphicsTramp Graphics Posts: 2,411
    edited February 2013

    I have a question that may not have been covered yet. I've been talking with SickleYield about making a man's Victorian style formal Opera cloak with collar, lapels, and capelet, and I could really use the help from someone who has actually made fully rigged full circle cloaks. The design I have in mind drapes over the arms completely at least over the upper arms, and as per our discussion, would need to be rigged to the collar at the very least, but to no more than the shoulder bones, and then use handles and morphs for the rest, neither of which I have any experience with.

    As for modelling it initially, I was thinking of starting with a sphere primitive cut in half at the equator, then flattening said hemisphere into a disk. Attached are images of the cloak I have in mind as well as two similar cloaks (which are basically what mine is a combination of). This is a garment which, if I can get right, is something I may actually want to release for potential sale (Chohole herself said she'd "pay good money" for a cloak like it. So it sounds like there could be a market for it, and I have not found anything even remotely like it, just medieval style hooded cloaks.

    Yes I would also think that this would be a popular item. Can see several characters it would be great for.

    I'm not the experienced person you're seeking to answer this so hopefully somebody will come by who is and reply.

    Some of the information you need is covered in the rigging tutorials [both those for purchase and those online].
    For eg. Rigging Original Figures covers creating bones and applying weight to them.
    Both the online long skirt tutorial in the forum archive and Genesis Basic Clothing Rig Kit cover information about ghost bones and handles.
    And over on Youtube there are some Daz3d videos for dealing with the Rigidity maps and other fun stuff.

    I hope that perhaps you might make some "how to" screenshots along the way while working on the cape.
    It's a great way to, for starters, remember for the 2nd cape, what works and what doesn't.
    And of course, I think many people would like to know the answers as well.
    And tutorials do not lose customers. I've found they tend to make a few more. Because when people see and/or realize how much work goes into an item, that $6 or whatever looks REAL GOOD as people's time tends to be worth money too. I don't know anybody whose weekly salary is $6.

    edit: For modeling, I'd be tempted to start something like that with the cylinder.The only problem with starting with a cylinder is the fact that it has to be modeled over a T-posed figure, and has to cover the arms spread out. Not only that, but the real thing is made from a circle of cloth, not a tube, and I really want to make this look and work as authentically as possible.

    Post edited by Tramp Graphics on
  • patience55patience55 Posts: 7,006
    edited December 1969

    ...edit ...

    The only problem with starting with a cylinder is the fact that it has to be modeled over a T-posed figure, and has to cover the arms spread out. Not only that, but the real thing is made from a circle of cloth, not a tube, and I really want to make this look and work as authentically as possible.

    Circle from centre, fill with a coon's surface, will give a flat circle plane ... sure would be nice if we could make dynamic clothing!

    Obviously a lot more surfaces would be required to model the cape, but this is what I was thinking of.

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This discussion has been closed.