Show Us Your Bryce Renders!
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Good work here. The backdrop fits nicely. I like how the lady i lit. Very good looking.
No the background can't be rendered as transparent as far as I know.
What you can do however is render using the 'Object Mask' setting in the render options drop down menu. This can then be imported into an Alpha Channel in which ever picture editing software you do any post work in. That then effectively gives you the transparent background.
What do you exactly mean by a transparent background? You can render a mask of the objects and use it eliminate the background and add in another background in a graphics application.
Thank's TheSavage64 and Horo.
I do appreciate any comments.
@Dave: Thank you for the information.
@Horo: I'm not exactly sure what a transparent background is, Horo. The lady who asked me the question, showed me an image of my pull toy without any background applied. All that was displayed was the pull toy against the default posting window. It was as though she had taken a pair of scissors and cut out the pull toy image. She did all this using PhotoShop, but also noted that when a background is removed through PhotoShop the edges have to be cleaned up.
She was wondering if an image could be rendered in Bryce so that when it's taken into PhotoShop less work would be required removing the background and cleaning up the edges. A mask sound like it might work for what she wants, but I've never done this so I'm not sure of all the what/when/how/etc. of making one. I also question how it should be saved so it can be used by others using other graphic programs.
On another note...
Thank you all very much for your kind and generous comments! There are so many incredible renders in this thread that there is no way I can possibly keep up and comment on every one, but rest assured I do see and appreciate them all!
@Ken Gilliland
thank you for the compliment suggesting that the pink afternoon of pelicans in flight would be a suitable candidate for your contest. It looks very interesting and the prizes are very tempting. I plan to practise more!
Thank you all for looking at my renders and for encouraging respones. I had downloaded an Adobe uprgrade that thoroughly messed up my internet and graphics situation so as to be unuseable.I lost track of the dicussion threads. Thankfully my "inhouse guru" was able to restore my system. I tried something completely off topic Friday and Saturday between acrylic painting class and a workshop in sewing a book together. So I had to get back to the birds. Here is a Brown pelican,one of Ken Gilliland's birds and pose. Oops, editied to add the artist's name for the "Wooden River Bridge" by Sergiy Dobrovolskyy/1971s/Rendo.
Just had an idea for doing broken objects. This is only a rough image and not very accurate
but it's not posted to be assessed. Just made it quick and simple.
The broken ashtray object was made with the grooves for the cigarettes as negative cylinders on
a positive cylinder. Then a negative mountainous terrain turned on it's side was used to make the break.
When grouping them together the terrain makes the jagged edge.
Doing it this way meant using 2 ashtrays, 1 for the large part and one for the smaller broken off part.
The 2 parts don't match completely accurately but I've only just started using this method.
The mug was done the same way. I just need to work out a way to create the little broken shards
that would naturally fall off during the break.
What you'd have to do is do a regular render of the object, then select just the object and choose 'Object Mask' in the render options and render again. This time you'll see a black and white render with the background black and the object white.
Save the Object Mask render in which ever file format you prefer really (I use .tif) and save it with the real render.
Then open the real render up in Photoshop and you have several choices;
Using the 'Channels' tab, create a new channel and then import the Object Mask render into it. This will then enable you to save the picture in a format that supports alpha channels or alternatively in the top menu under 'Select' there is an option to 'Load Selection'. Set the 'Source' to alpha channel it will put a selection around the object for you (because it uses the Object mask render to know where the edges of the object are). You can then reverse the selection and hit delete to erase the background in the real render, or turn the selection into a path (in the 'Paths' tab. Then save the Path and make it a 'Clipping Path'. This enables the picture to be saved in several formats for use in other graphic and page makeup applications (In Design, Quark Express etc.) with a transparent background.
Alternatively, you can create a layer mask and import the Object Mask render into that, this will make the background transparent without having to actually delete it. Then you can place a different background picture on another layer beneath it.
Cleaning up edges is unnecessary, if it's a bit pixelated, you can feather the edges of the object mask.
If you choose creating an Alpha Channel in Photoshop, you can then save the picture out as a .gif along with it's alpha channel and when displayed on the internet, it will have a transparent background like you described when the other person posted it.
@Ice: I really like the image. Nice job.
@Stuart: That is a very interesting process. Even though it's still a WIP what you've done is really good. Since you're using terrains to make the breaks, could you also use terrains to make the broken pieces of the mug? For the small pieces from the mug make mounds that are eroded and resized. As for the large piece, duplicate that area then make it positive or neutral? Just some thoughts I had looking at your post and the image.
@Dave: Thanks for all that information, Dave. I personally don't use PhotoShop, but if she's used it for any length of time she should be able to do what you've described with the image and mask. I did get a mask created, twice in fact. I'm still getting used to black being transparent. I was trying to use GIMP to make my own transparency, but I haven't learned enough about GIMP to get it done.
@Gussnemo - Thanks for the reply and suggestions. I will have a go and see what I can do with it.
@iceScribe - Nice to sea a see bird near the sea, the one's I see most are seagulls flying around urban areas, following ploughing tractors or scavenging around rubbish tips.
Just a short question, is there any way to change the time to the correct UK time on the forum.
I noticed it says I posted this at 2:34 A.M. but it was actually 9:34 A.M.
Thanks TheSavage64 to explain it to GussNemo, That is, what I meant. The mask can also be slightly blurred so you don't have to feather. I use calculate option in HDRShop for adding 2 images with a mask. I think it is the easiest way to do it.
The pelican and the bridge look really good, composition as well. I'm not so enthusiastic about the water.
Not sure, it's a while ago since I experimented with this. I would try to copy the broken object and in the copy, swap positive and negative parts.
Your Profile (see top right of forum screen, below the top bars. Localization Settings ( and that is Daz' spelling not mine.)
Guss...excellent result..it was very informative and instructional to see the cart develop into your final artwork.
Ice...very nice...almost natural.
Stuart..very interesting technique using the terrain that way..must try it out.
Jay
@chohole - Thanks for that, sorted.
@Horo - Thanks for that, will have a look and a mess about.
@Jamahoney - Still need to work on it a bit.
@GussNemo: I have just seen your last pic. It is fun to watch your progress (I hope that does not sound too fatherly). Nice floor. Also the texture of the children balls are excellent. If I should suggest an improvement (and that's not easy ;-) You could give the red wagon a tiny bit of bump, maybe the tires, too. And though the floor texture is excellent, but you can see the tiles (but I had to look twice). Keep up the good work.
@Jay: Thank you, it was a rather interesting adventure. Of course it isn't over, there's something else I have in mind with the pull toy. And so much more to learn.
@electro: I could add a bit of bump to the wagon body, but I was going for a plastic/painted wood look. Those have a flat, rather dull, looking surface. But the idea of roughing up the surface would be something to try and see what results.
Haha, yeah, the planks don't look quite right do they? I saw that also, but decided when the deck was stained there was a coffee break every five minutes. And the stain dried before each coat could be blended with the next. I'll have to take a closer look at that 2D image to see if it's that way in the original image or something that occurred when applied to the infinite plain. It may be I can align each panel if the infinite plain is the problem. Or try adding it to a terrain or new plain instead. I have plenty of beakers to experiment with.
The tires. Again, going for the smooth looking plastic/painted wood affect. But perhaps using a few torus to create grooves would look nice. More experimenting. Thanks for the suggestions and your compliments.
My first completed render in Bryce 7 Pro. Feel free to pull it to pieces
Convo for this image goes something like this
"You just wit till I get you home"
"But Muuum, you did say it was a Moon gate"
Congratulations! So you made Bryce 7.1 Pro to work. Render looks cool. I like that the child can only be seen as shadow - apart from the leg. Vegetation matches the one from the Moon Gate. If mom doesn't make a step forward soon, she'll fall on her nose. Otherwise, very nicely done. Next step, try a bit of soft shadows, 10% or so.
@chohole: Horo beat me to it, mom looking like she was on the way down for a nose plant. She also looks like she's listing to starboard a bit.
A good way to get a general idea of how a figure would be posed is to stand in front of a mirror and do the pose. Observe how you're standing, feet position, posture, hand/finger/arm positions, where your body weight is placed, your head position, the overall look while holding the pose.
And whether or not, as you've done in that scene, action is taking place. Because action brings in its own characteristics, it's equally important to view yourself in a mirror so you can get the body weight distribution correct. In your image, the figure appears to be taking a step forward, yet her upper body is leaning too far to the right. Moving forward would have the upper body centered over the hips, the hips would be slightly forward and the bodies weight would be on the right leg. And if she was really in a hurry, the upper body would be more forward but still centered over the hips. Think of a sprinter not long after the start of a race. They're not in their starting position, but not in a full upright position either.
I really do like what you've done, especially the little girl's shadow and leg. It adds without adding. I do agree with Horo about softening the shadows. Right now it looks like there's a spot light on both figures.
Yes, that's what I get for relying on a canned pose to knock out the render quickly. Not something I do very often. I should be really ashamed of myself for that. :red: GussNemo your advice was exactly the advice I was giving to newbies in the educational Newbie Contest we run.
And yes I normally prefer soft shadows, but this was done using standard settings, just to get it rendered while I had a few minutes to spare.
I was well impressed with the speed of the render, I guess that has something to do with the New PC as well as using Bryce 7 instead of my beloved Bryce 5.
@chohole - Never tried anything with human figures in it myself. The mum kind of reminds me of Joanna Lumley.
@chohole: I've done that several times. Take those few spare minutes to rush through something in order to get it done. And end up with something that tells me it's time to do something else for a while.
I like the cottage and the ship's in the storm. I took a vacation. wonderfull art on display again.
Just thought I'd try something different to the usual still life renders I've done.
Quite happy with this one but needs a bit more work I think to make it look
more natural. I found the boat on a site a couple of years age, can't remember where now.
Looking good, interesting camera angle. The boat is great to give us a scale clue. There is some fuzziness under water near the bottom of the image which doesn't look right to me.