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Slight recap of the past day. After a filter fluids and spark plug appointment, yesterday was mostly nonproductive. I did start to dress up another figure, tho with other non-daz detractions I really did not get far with Lilinoe for Kalea 7 (there are a few oddities with her). I think I'll continue that with a set of ear rings. Why not more, like the entire set of FWSA Piper set, well it's complicated.
I have a few things I needed to do that did eat into the play funds the past few months, and I'm making a command decision at this point. I do need to get a Iray crunch card, and the ones that are worth using with Iray are not cheep to put it lightly. Therefore I have held off on 'Spontaneous Purchases' and kept the buy-now stuff to some needed basics. As a result, the little green shopping cart icons in the Daz store have been "advancing", lol.
I do not have M7, the dice roll landed on Kimo7 Pro bundle. And that was only so I had that 'prosthetic' for beta testing purposes. I will eventually get M7, just not the Pro bundle, not after the flood of V7, Eva7, Bethany7, and TJ7 Pro Bundle malfunctions. In any case, that is that. I can show you the incredible ear rings, just not on FWSA Piper. In the past, I would rush out to buy the full bundle to show you everything, we can thank the governments birthday gift for the funds not being there till the third for FWSA Piper. Happy birthday Dave, your gift from the gov is town taxes, registration and inspection of your Jeep bills, lol.
Lilinoe for Kalea 7 with FWSA Piper's Jewelry. I honestly do not think the Promos do her justice, and at the same time some things are going to need to be worked around. So let me set this up again with a different hair style and the earrings. FYI, those are my Alt Shader eye mats for FWSA Paloma I conjured up eons ago. Hair is Oleander Hair, Outfit by OOT from rendo.
Oh, look what has arrived, lol. I hope it is not delicate, lol. Hmmm, from China not Hong Kong, I don't think this is the Fan RPM controllers for my workstation, I don't think. It may be a MIA package supposedly shipped way back in 2014 or 2015, lol. It can sit out on the deck for now, I have stuff to do.
Suited up in hazmat gear for nothing. They lied about the origin of shipping, grrrr.
Think this can handle 3 amps, yea right, lol. I'll test them after looking at the earrings on Lilinoe
Yea, looks good I think. (Lilinoe for Kalea 7 with FWSA Piper's Jewelry)
I just looked at the promos for FWSA Piper, and I see a few things I don't need to repeat. The color presets for the Jewelry is there, and there is three different ear rings as shown in the promos. So, on to a deeper look I guess.
Yea, that is a lot of detail, as usual for the PA. If I get any closer, the view field will go threw them, lol.
Lots of zones to work with costomizing them,
and very friendly pose bone controls for the ear ring parts.
There is a few dials as well to adjust the style of some parts, different ones for the different earrings. * The one earring is in mid air, because I put it there for an earlier screen-cap. They all load where the Star Stud is by default.
Hmm, I feel like I'm missing something here, ah coffee that's it, lol.
I thought there was a 'Style' dial to make the stars go away on the bracelet, tho I may have been mistaken.
Easy enough to do with the zones on the thing.
And remember...
Stay off milk. Drink your drugs. And don't try this, wait, what are you guys saying!? lol.
Win10 has a fairly cool start menu actually. http://www.pcworld.com/article/2960788/windows/how-to-customize-windows-10s-start-menu.html
But I'm also the sort who will use keyboard search (left hand on the keyboard, right one on the mouse - blame it on the gaming, IDK). So for that, I liked Win8.1 better because they were better integrated - I could type the keyword while not leaving the "menu" (the screen actually). Win10 switches to a separate search view, grr. Win10 is somewhat disjointed on the whole - the worst offender IMO is the separation of control params between the good ole Control Panel and that new "Parameters" thing.
LOL Yeah, my hand is on ASWD all the time, even if I'm only ever pressing shift, alt, and ctrl-z for work.
wow, I guess some people never eat or drink sustenance while there working. So much for multitasking, lol. So that's Microsoft's plan, to keep people from "Drinking and Working", or "texting while surf the web".
For safety reasons, you must keep both hands on the keyboard and mouse while driving windows. You shall not have any distractions such as cell phones or home entertainment systems or any other device that takes your attention away from the desktop. If you must answer the phone or door, you must first save and close all your open work files and put the computer in 'park' first.
A good rule of thumb is to have the Antivirus properly fastened any time you get into the computer chair.
Am I the only one to ever have had more then one computer that I'm using at the same time? lol.
Morning. Well, I used that Start menu search-thing for the first time today. I still have the GT730 in that 4x slot, and I noticed one of the fans was running rather loudly without any baffles around the lower part of the case. I started messing with baffles and wanted to see what the fan RPMs were, and AID64 was not open and I didn't feel like minimizing a 'gazillion' windows I had open to get to the desktop icon, lol.
So, how did I end up there, the rat hole of vid suggestions off of vids. And pausing a vid and opening up a new window to look something up, lol.
This may or may not end up in one of Luke's Workshop "Dose it matter" vids, in a joking kind of way. A lot of "Vapor chamber" CPU cooler marketing stuff only compares the performance of a vapor chamber cooler to a older style heat-pipe cooler, the kind that do Not have the heatpipes in direct contact with the Processor (or the heat spreader built onto the processor if you don't have an Athalon XP bare glass chip). My question was slightly different and not exactly from a Gamers Prospective. Unless you explicitly tell 3delight not to use a core or a few, it will load down all the cpu cores it can get it's grubby threads on (within the limits of the 3DL license), lol. Given that my FX-8350 has a built in heat-spreader and I'm not into gaming, I am not worried about lopsided thermals on my processor at all. So here is the big Q.
What is the difference between a "Direct contact" heat pipe cooler like the "SilenX IXC-120HA2" that I have now, and a new cooler with a 'Vapor chamber'? Given that a 'Vapor chamber' is basically a Heat pipe, and both designs have the 'heatpipe' tube or chamber in direct contact with the processor, I suspect not much at all. Especially if your heatpipes are not trying to fight gravity (Wicking only goes so far).
I honestly think that the heat pipe orientation, and airflow dynamics threw your computer and coolers will make far more impact to cooling performance, then a "Direct contact" heatpipe vs 'Vapor chamber' cooler. Case and point, I just dropped the GPU temp from 97F down to 91F, just by putting a baffle in the case to guide air from the front 120mm intake fan at the front of the PCI cards (36c to 33c about). A drop of about 3c with nothing more then a piece of flat plastic.
I was also thinking about another application for a 'Vapor chamber' cooler, IF one can be located that fit's the Odroid XU4. It has the CPU off to one side, so a Vapor chamber may possibly in theory, hypothetically perform better then a copper Heatspreader-Shim between the chips and a GeForce MX440 style heat sink. I haven't found much yet for the cute little computer (aside from the mountain of aluminum or copper blocks with fins that I already have, and am testing now).
I have used one of these for the last like 5+ years, never had a problem with my CPU getting too hot: Corsair-H50
GPU is another story.. I've used little extra fans that plug into a slot next to the GPU, they help somewhat for a smaller case. Last build gave up and just got a monster tower case with a ridiculous amount of fans built in.. I mean this thing is huge, like 25lbs/11kg just by itself. If you ever are in need of a new case I highly recomend it.
Nice! My workstation was this, at one time in it's former life.
Not kidding when I say I can cram a four-socket server board in there. 16 x 16 inch Motherboard tray.
I lowered the PSU mount, added a HDD rack above the PSU, and modified the rest as well. I understand how smaller cases can be useful, I have a few of them here (working computers). I have four mid-towers (what y'all call "Full towers" today), three cake-boxes, and one Micro-atx case (My foot-rest). The rest are what I call "True Full towers" (23 plus inches tall). All of them are really nice computer cases, and I've seen a few really nice newer cases as well.
OSWATT workstation (after mods) has, ten HDD bays (six below the Mobo tray, four above the PSU), four CDROM bays, two 3.5-inch Floppy drive bays, two 120mm intake fans for the mother board area (PSU cools the upper section). the case has ample room for future upgrades and mods as well at eighteen inches deep, nine inches wide, and just over twenty-seven inches tall (Without the feet). I'm still thinking about future mods for a SSD rack, and cleaning up the mess that is the lower HDD racks (borrowed racks from other cases just dropped there is kind of 'cheesy'.). I think I want to make a CG mockup of the case first, to look at the different options (there is a lot to consider before I take a Dremel to anything).
My CPU cooler is an Alpenföhn Himalaya (http://www.alpenfoehn.de/auslaufmodelle/himalaya) and my i7-2700k gets about 46 - 49° during rendering ...
That's a nifty cooler Kerya, I don't think I have one quite like that one.
Just fooling around in Hex with that 'extrude' thing.
Hi Z
Vapour chambers are just about moving heat around the heatsink faster. It can't help the heatsink dump heat to the ambient environment any quicker.
You can get about 20-30% improvement in heat transfer from the heat source to the cooling fins, but from the fins, its still all about your air flow.
(The case you mention of 'a hotspot from a single core' is where a vapour chamber offers an advantage. By being able to spread that heat across the whole contactplate a bit quicker than a solid plate.)
prixat, where is the 'Like button' for that Iray ram usage spreadsheet, lol ? And how can I find out the Poly-count of HD figures in Studio?
Then it is so then. I must mark out the no-go zones on the Odroid XU4, as many chip-set coolers have appendages that stick into plugs around the core area of the "Cute little computer".
The chips are really not in ideal spots for many coolers, given the limited mount options.
The CPU bottom left would be better if I could rotate this cooler 90 degrees, however that puts the mount arms in the HDMI plug shorting out the pins in there. And the arm would need to be more hook shaped like the Zalman ones that won't work on this cooler.
As for hex, I closed it this morning, and I suspect the cached OBJs there got wiped. So I don't think I can pull up that scene again, not that I'm all that worried about it, it was just practice with the Extract tool thing.
I'm sure it would not be to difficult to make the scene again if I really wanted to. (Don't worry, the ship is a WIP)
It's already 86F (30c) in here and I don't want to know the humidity after making coffee, lol. My workstation is not doing as bad as I am, lol. The CPU is at 38c (102F, a bit of a fever), and the GPU is at 35c (95F, a tad bit cold for a human, lol). BTW, the XU4 right now is sitting at 45c at the desktop idling with that heatsink in the pics, I've had better heatsinks on it in the past.
Ironically, the bare aluminum peg-array thing was better. I have a copper version of that I've yet to try.
Easiest way for me to find out polycount is to import or bridge the object into hex, look at the polygon count, and multiply by 4 for every level of sub-d.
So not that easy if you don't know the level of sub-d in the HD morph in question made by some one else? I hope they make a 8GB card with less then a hundred watts TDP sooner rather then later. Forget the computer, It's already getting kind of hot in here for my comfort as it is, lol.
Fred does 3x all the time as far as I know. I usually use 2x, sometimes 1x if I can get away with it.. depends on the base polycount and where the edge loops are if I can get away with it and still get the look I want. The thing you're testing for us now is 2x (but you know that 'cause I labeled the dials that way) If you poke around at the internal names of the Daz HD character addons they seem to be x4 which seams excessive to me.
Shhh, I don't want them to know I actually butchered up those ships in hex a few weeks ago and just tossed that scene together yesterday for something cool to post, lol.
Not the one, can't talk, wont talk, not the one.
Just kidding, I did actually doo all of that yesterday. lol.
3x on G3F is not that bad, given the lower poly-count at base poly. 2x is kind of pushing for some areas (shoulder blades, knees, etc) for G3F figures. I thought it was much Much MUCH more then that. so, 4x for each figure, plus the hair and cloths (to be on the safe side).
So, do I eneter 17k x4, or 68k x4?
17,000x4x4x4x4 for Victoria 7 HD.
17,000x4x4x4 for FWSA Paloma.
4960x4x4 for the item you're testing today.
It's expensive, but the nvidia 880M was 8GB and 100W.
It's also mobile only so you'll have some fun converting it to fit a desktop.
880m in a PC. If I was not working on other things, had lots of funds to have custom adaptor boards made, and if I was a better programmer...
Electrical would be the easiest of the challenges I think. I'm sure the data interface has to be something simple like a PCIe or AGP like thing. The signal voltages may be different, tho I suspect the 'Protocol' is probably kind of normal for computers. So as simple as matching up the connector pins, and possibly put chips in there to convert one-point-whatever volt data to whatever it is on the other side. Power connectors may possibly be a tad more difficult, if it's odd voltages in the source laptop for the 880m in question. And that last bit brings up the bigger doubt about using a Laptop GPU board as a PC graphics card.
Drivers vs OEM cards. Another reason to stay miles away from those Gateway/HP/Compaq 6GB Tesla cards selling dirt cheep. I've had many sound cards given to me with odd markings on them. It looked like an Audigy card chip layout with an Audigy logo on it, however the drivers from Creative refused to talk to the thing. It only worked with the OEM driver, if the card was plugged into a motherboard with that OEM's bios on it. So after having dealt with that many Many MANY times over the years, I refuse to purchase add on cards with OEM name stickers on them. I will not even except them free, The trash bin is right there (pointing to the trash bin). I suspect the drivers for Laptop GPU boards are just as proprietary, and will only work in the laptop it was made to be in by that OEM.
I did a few searches, and the only thing I could find, was hints on how to use a full size PC graphics card, on a Laptop with a PCIe to mPCIe/ExpressCard adaptor. Not one link for using a Laptop Graphics board in a PC. So I will guess that it is far more difficult then just making a simple plug to card pin-out adaptor. I've looked in the past as well, because there was a few laptop graphics chips (GeForce 8800m, 9650m, etc) that would have made a very nice "Fanless" EPC card if it could have been done. I ended up getting an AGP mobo, and drooping in an ATI 9250 for my EPC, nothing newer fit the low-watt and fanless requirements... until the 4GB GTX730 came along.
As for the renders, it was only a curiosity of what a MCM may look like IF it had eight IBM Power 8 chips on it. Honestly, the TDP and number of chip interconnects would put this slightly beyond difficult if not impossible to actually do. 96 Power 8 cores cruising along at up to 5GHz is very appealing I will admit (especially for 3delight, HD figures with AoA mats). Perhaps a smaller MCM with only four chips with 48 cores total may be more reasonable.
LY Fallon, with my Paloma AtlShader mats. Keyhole Style outfit.
Morning. I guess it is about that time, tho it was on the 23 rd rather then today, tho close enough as it was a long difficult few months to be honest. Constantly moving goalposts, or "Moving the goalposts" as some call it.
I do periodically look to see if Daz has gotten around to swapping out the broken zips or not, and that has been on going for quite some time now.
I have so many tickets that have fallen off the back of the zen desk, been kicked around the floor and probably forgotten about at this point, lol. Tho it is not all bad, some things have been fixed, and at least an attempt on other stuff has been made. Thank you Daz3d, DES, Fred, Fisty, Sabby, and SickleYield. The best advice I can give is, Do Not Get the Victoria 7 Pro Bundle. Just don't surrender...
I do not like playing games where I'm told something needs to fit a widget, and the shape of the widget is still being worked on. It's also kind of obvious that the PAs did not have enough time (If any) to verify there gizmo would work with the finale shape of the widget before the deadline. The Gizmo is no longer the PAs to work on, and Daz dose not have the resources to fix things after the deadline and launch date, so that is that. The system is broken, and it is producing broken stuff that will not or can not be fixed. Case and point, Fred/Sabby have a FWSA Adaline zip with a working clothing projection shape thing, and for whatever reason that zip has yet to make it threw DIM to those of us that purchased the V7 Pro bundle. I do not know the status of Raziel & Silver's Summer (The other figure in the V7 Pro bundle), that ticket has fallen off the back of the zen desk, along with many others for outfits spanning the V7 pro bundle threw the TJ7 pro bundle. I stopped buying Pro bundles at that point, It's cheaper and less grief to just get the figures and very few select other items you are sure will work.
On to happier thoughts. There is a couple of things that are very good and do work, and I will try to stick to that as much as I feel this is a time to morn for the PAs as much as it is a time to celebrate the new technology. The basic V7 figure, and the G3F morphs (Head and Body) is a far better starting combo then the V7 Pro Bundle, at this point in time.
So, while I fire up studio and look at the 'Base' V7 figure, and Krayon Hair (Two things that do work), Let me babble a bit about that ShareCG thing, lol. I know that the Opto-distort chair is not exactly a neutral style that will work in every scene, it was something I just had to do because it looked so wild. I still need to bake up some Iray mats for the SORH (with possibly new geometry for the glowing band zones), I will get to that some day. That Obelisk set needs to be redone, the geometry and lack of proper UV mapping is horrendous at best. And I can see the two most popular items are the G3F alt shader preset that I still need to fix the eyes on, and the Down-There shaping dials to tame the odd groin shape of G3F, lol. So I guess I have my work set out for me, lol.
1:30 FPT (Face-Plant Time). Total Rendering Time: 9 minutes 52.87 seconds.
Now I remember why I made that Alt Shader Preset, lol. Little did I know back then that AoA would become the "de facto shader" of choice, and when combined with HD figure morphs would result in Face-Plant times in unusable amounts of proportions, lol.
So I guess I have a project for today. It dose not look like V7 has pre-baked eyes that make it appear that she is rolling her eyes at you all the time. That set of Paloma eye presets I made has been a major time saver for me the past year (or so), I just need to re-save them using G3F's maps instead of Paloma's.
Something like that. I thought G3F had more eye colors then that, hmmm.
Well, I've managed to port my Paloma AltShader over to G3F's maps, and made some nifty icons for it. (I'm still working on this)
If you happen to have Paloma, it shouldn't be to difficult to load her AoA mats then using Ctrl + Left-click (Ignore Maps) to apply my Alt shader to her. Unfornately the eyes will be a tad more work, as some times maps get lost in the AoA-to-DazDefault shader conversion.
I would very much like to do more, tho I'm still thinking about options and considering a few different angles. Some where between not wanting to get on Fred's (and/or Sabby's) bad side, not having time to make shaders for every figure in the universe, and not wanting to play favorites. Favorites , yea right (3DS, DES, EJ, Fred, Lyoness, OziChick, Sabby, Silver, etc etc etc). I may not have Favorite figure PAs, just Favorite Figures, lol.
And there is V7 with those same shader settings with V7's maps. It would take a little bit of adjustments, tho honestly not bad at all for setting up scenes without half-hour long face-plant times.
And regular G3F with the same AltShader with G3F's maps.
Yea, I know, yet another render with the same AltShader settings. Paloma with Paloma's maps.
Hmm, I don't recognise this info panel. I'm using the Scene Info one, and it updates the poly count dynamically (note the "cheat" in the second screenshot ):
Yea, over cropped that, sorry. Here is where that 'Basic info' thing is, however it dose not show the Sub-D level of "HD figure morph dials", only the basic G3F Sub-D. It is very useful for props that don't have shape dials with extended Sub-D beyond the minimum set by the dials shown in your screen caps Kettu. I didn't think about looking in the Tool tab for that info, good suggestion, I'll go check.
Select the object in the scene tab, then click that little bar-thing.
Then scroll down till you can see that info. You can click that Little bar-thing again to make that sub-pain slide down out of your way after your done looking.
P.S. It's over 30c (86F) in here today, and feels like a sauna. Blagh.
I'm not seeing a Max Sub-D for HD morphs there?
I don't think there is a way in studio to 'cap' the upper SubD level of HD morph dials (That you did not make your self to be lower, Assuming your a PA with access to that Electron-voodoo stuff, lol). It has been asked many times before, with no answer provided other then "Get a better computer" or tough luck, lol. We mere mortals do not have a way to limit the level of Sub-D on HD figures, and it has been that way for a very long time. I do not ever expect that to change.
Also the two dials do different stuff. The upper one only sets the Sub-D in the view field, the other one sets the Minimum for render. And HD morph dials push the Sub-D beyond that (in render) to whatever the PA made the morph to be (EDIT, or dose it?).
That is the SubD level - it's labelled Minimum because it is, the mesh will not be divided less that that but it may be divided more (without smoothing) if the setting in a shader such as the Iray Uber Base is higher (to support displacement). An HD moprh cannot adjust the division level.
In unrelated news. I just ordered a GT740 instead of a second GT730 card. They both have the same number of CUDA cores, so it should be a good test to see how they do with one or the other driving the monitors. All the other cards I could locate that were Iray capable either had less then 4GB of ram, or exceeded what I was willing to spend (Watts and funds) for an experiment with only 4GB on them.
Alt Shaders. I thought I had made a separate set of presets for Yulia with different color and strength settings. Tho it appears the Paloma settings I conjured up was what I had used for her. I'll do another render or a few after it cools down a bit in here. I'm sure I have completely different settings for the EJ figures, and possibly for some of LY's figures also, I'll look at setting up a G3F variant of those as well.
Swimsuits that fit G3F figures, there are a few that do work. Sorbet Swimwear by Lilflame (used in a few Promos around), Tantalizing by Lilflame (even tho it's not exactly a swimsuit, close enough), and Strappy Bikini by Fisty. They all work incredibly well, and fit most figures I've tried them on with no grief at all. Again, renders are pending lower thermals in here. BTW, if your looking for "Skirt Protection" that works, get that Yulia outfit, The "Yulia Panties" are the best so far for not poking threw skirt waist lines and actually fit G3F figures with no grief at all that I've experienced thus far.
(EDIT)
Ah, what Richard typed sounds correct, even tho my brain crashed on the last bit. The entire HD thing is kind of beyond my knowledge. So I'm even less sure now what the difference is between a regular Sub-D figure and an HD figure, if there both limited by the mesh density set by a shader instead of a shaping dial (Ha? What? How many cookies!?). I look at HD stuff like many look at Microwave circuits, Don't question how it works because it's **** Magic.
Egg on my face, I guess it shows how bad things were back then, lol. In any case, Fisty knows about the JCM and I'm moving on. I got around it here by setting one of the two back bones at zero, and bending the other a tad more to make up for the sitting pose. Good enough for a render showing off the Alt Shaders.
Left is LY Fallon sporting the Keyhole dress and the alt shader used in the former Power 8 MCM renders. Right is FWSA Yulia wearing Strappy (I'm sorry I missed the JCM), That is the alt shader I've been using on Yulia for quite some time now. I've yet to make and save an entire set of eye and makeup settings for the two of them, tho it is on my to-do list. Oh, and the third 'cute one' there is a dead ringer for an ancient chicken, tho I would not fancy trying to take it's eggs from the nest, lol. That's MicroraptorDR. The seat is from the "Modern Beach hut".
I had originally just dropped Paloma's AltShader and maps on Fallon. I decided Fallon's maps needed slightly different settings, as the original AltShader had slightly blown out highlights in the test chamber. It's still a WIP
None - an HD morph moves the vertices crated by the SubD process, up to a certain level (usually no more than three) while a non-HD morph works only on the base mesh. It's the same figure and geometry.
Thanks for this tip! I never looked what's there underneath the divider =)
"Mine" is the "Scene Info" pane - you find it in the "Window - Panes (Tabs)" menu dropdown. I cheated in the sense of increasing the subdivision limit - for testing purposes.
Richard. I think I understand what your saying, and where your going with that. A few years back, there was a thread asking about HD figures, and some things were not exactly clear. There was also a misunderstanding possibly where some figures supposedly had Sub-D features and were not getting the 'HD' logo thing. So that left some doubts as to what was considered HD or not. (I can't locate the thread now, it was somewhere back in G2F days). I was looking, because there was at the time a nifty new "HD" logo on some figures, and I wanted to know what that was about.
That was many cups of coffee ago, lol. There was HD-TV, Ultra HD Blu-ray, Radion HD graphics cards, HDR lighting, HD audio, HDMI cables, HD microphones, HD coffee filters, everything just had to have "HD" in the name back then. Next it will be "VR", lol.
Kettu. yea, I never would have looked my self. It was open by default in a Public beta, and that's how I discovered that nifty thing, I just had no clue what the numbers were at the time. Your screen-caps reminded me, that the same info is shown in the Tool Tab under Geometry editor. It's been busy, and I've yet to look at the stuff in more detail.
Ah, never mind, the tool tab geometry editor is not the best for looking for SubD levels, lol. It was a thought. So, the scene info tab it is then, or that nifty sub-pain-thing in the scene tab.