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With that IBL you will indeed get blue indirect light in the room. Not only that is expected but I think that it would add to the realism, because that is exactly what happens in real life. Overexposure is a camera deal and so it needs to be dealt with the camera exposure controls, instead of the by chaging the lighting intensity. I know that a lot of people find it more intuitive to change the light intensity but that is not always the best solution.
Case in point, let's imaging that you are taking a photo with a camera of an outdoor scene. The sun is shining. You look at the first photo and it's highly overexposed. Obviously you cannot dim the sun. So what do you do? You let less light get into the camera. That is exposure control and that's why it's so important to have in our renders. It really adds a new level of artistic control.
Hope this helps.
back to this...yes, I know that part. If I AM using a map, is the Y rotation the only way to move the map in Reality?
Yes, that is tied to how it works in LuxRender.
But honestly the problem with that approach is, if I am understanding this right, that we can tweak the light settings using those same things (F stop, shutter, etc) and see the results as we go, whereas in Reality, we have to set it, render it, then start all over to tweak it? Isn't changing the amount of light using the same controls in L.R. doing the same thing if we have those exact same numbers in the camera setting in Reality? If I have an ISO in the camera which determines sensitivity to light, the same as the ISO in the lights in L.R- which is sensitivity to light/amount of light?
I meant to change the exposure in LuxRender, not Reality. Once you find the right combination *then* you copy the settings into Reality, so that all the successibe render, if any, are automatically set to those values.
I'll show you the renders, going to let them run the exact same time, but this shows a difference. I'm not seeing that much of one, though, to run back and forth and tweak in Reality instead of L.R.- but yes, there is a difference. I'll post the renders in ten minutes or so. In L.R. when I changed the cameras in Reality, I left it at the Auto Linear and the IBL light at 1.00000, no changes. In other words, the default.
EDIT: Okay, here's the results at the END of the renders, with the exact same samples per pixels and exact same render time.
Ah, makes sense. I didn't want you to think I was lazy but I AM a smart worker lol. To be clear, "exposure" is which one, or the total effect of all of them? (I bet some of you are really getting a hoot out of my questions!)
Nope, I hollard'd'd... :)
I will try playing with the exposures.. infact, I totally forgot about it.. and I've had many a problems in iray also with exposure and lighting recently, so cant really compare the fustration.. heh..
Yes, exposure is the combined effect of ISO, Aperture, and Shutter. It defines how much exposure to light the film/camera sensor had.
The f-stop parameter is the aperture of the lens. Each lens, like our eye, has an iris that can restrict the amount of light passing through the lens. A wide-open iris will let more light hit the film/sensor than a small iris. The aperture is expressed with a number called f-stop. Lower numbers, like f5.6, f4, and f2.8, indicate wider aperture. Higher numbers, like f8, f11, and f22, indicate progressively smaller apertures. Each number, as strange as it seems, indicates a doubling or halfing of the aperture. For example, f4 is double the aperture of f5.6. And f2.8 is double the aperture than f4. f11 is half the aperture of f8.
The shutter speed is simply how long the film/sensor is exposed to light. 1/250 of a second is half the time of 1/125. Longer shutter times mean more light and the scene will look brighter.
Lastly the ISO speed is a value that indicates how fast, how sensitive, the film/sensor is. ISO 200 indicates a film that is twice as sensitive to light than ISO 100.
All those values make sense with real optics and a real camera. In practice, with LuxRender, you can use the "Estimate" button and then change the shutter speed, leaving the other values as they are.
I'd give you a friendly slap you if you were in range
I edited my results, posted the Histogram (I hope that's what it is, and no comments from the peanut gallery) at the END of the second test, with the exact same render time and samples per pixel. So everyone's clear, the first one in LuxRender, I switched to Linear and tweaked the ISO and all the Tone Mapping settings. I went into the LIght section and increased the IBL. There's no other lights in the scene, I kept it simple.
So then, I used those settings and in REALITY, I put them in the Camera section. In LuxRender, I left it at the default Auto Linear and the default 1.00000 for the IBL Gain. Here's the two results. This is using Malibu IBL. (from the HDRILabs site)
LOL, I was getting there, but someone already asked what the settings were. I start at these when doing it the L.R. tweaking way, because I can change slightly from the dropdown options in Reality. I'll explain in ( )
Reality LuxRender
Film ISO 125 128-135 (I can tweak it and not use only 125 or 160. To me, that's a big jump and I like playing with ISO)
Shutter 1/8 0.142 (1/8 is 0.125 which is handy to know for L.R. So again, I have some leeway)
F Stop 8 7.70 (close)
Gamma 2.31
Then in the Lights, in L.R. for the IBL I used 1.8353626
Over in Lights in Reality, you can set the gamma for your IBL. Is that the same thing as the Gamma in Lights in LuxRender? Assume so. EDIT: The map rotation was 260.00 I always use 230-260 for good side lighting.
So Paolo, if I use these settings over in Reality, would you suggest then to switch to Linear and fine tune after that? I think that's what you're saying. EDIT: Okay, re-read your post. I'll tweak shutter speed (and ISO, sorry, but I love to fine tune with that.)
With all the Film Reponse types, any tips on all of those? My goodness. I don't know where to start.
If you mean in Studio, I did a tutorial on the basics in my thread (still in Art Studio) and basically, remember when you move the ISO slider (In Render Settings) that you move Exposure Value too. But moving the slider to the right means "lighter" for ISO and "darker" (to compensate for glare) in Exposure Value. So try this- put your Film ISO around 120-160, then go to Exposure Value and slide that back to the left a bit. I then go to the Environment tab and raise or lower the intensity of the map. Go back to Tone Mapping and Burn Highlights / Crush Blacks, and if you have a light item, LOWER the Burn Highlights so the detail won't wash out. Crush Blacks is similar to contrast, you want to increase that to get darker shadows and to help with light items. That should get you started if you haven't tweaked all those a lot.
OMGoodness, I didn't like "Estimate" in LuxRender for Linear when still using my settings in the Camera section of Reality. I tried it and the entire thing went really blue and dark. UGH. (No I didn't tweak anything else!)
They look the same to me. Is that what you were looking for?
If you are familiar with adjusting all three of them then, by all means, do it. I was just suggestion a simple method by using the shutter speed, for the benefit of everybody reading.
Yep, just showing that putting all that in the camera settings in Reality (once you've figured it out by tweaking in LuxRender and have the settings) will indeed save time for the settings on that IBL/setup and save time. The Reality camera setting one and the LuxRender lighting one look almost the same (the highlight on the rock is brighter.
Thanks for hanging around and popping in to answer questions. Much appreciated!
In Reality, for the Render section, where it identifies the file name- it also has gamma for the image. Should that be changed to the gamma setting that we use in the IBL file (LIghts, in Reality) or the Gamma we use in LuxRender for the lighting? I would think I wouldn't want to have a gamma of 2.3 in my scenes for the lighting, then have the output png using something different?
You're very welcome Novica.
The gamma should not be chaged at all. The gamma for textures and IBL is completely indipendent from the one in the Render tab.
Cheers.
How can I fix textures like texture tiling?
I took an object, and scaled it quite a bit, and it blew out all the details..
Click on the gear menu for the texture and select Edit. In the texture editor adjust the tiling as you need.
Cheers.
Okay,I'm sharing my settings for the renders, testing the Smart IBLs. These may give you a good starting point, or I may be boring you.
For this one, my settings keep the leaves from being blown out and the rim lighting noticeable but not glaring. If you have all dark objects you'll lighten everything, but I had those leaves to contend with that I really liked.
The Arches and Pine tree Smart IBL settings in LuxRender: (and in parenthesis, what you'll need to use in Reality which is the CLOSEST setting, you can't type in numbers. As discussed, you can type these in the Camera Setting in Reality then tweak in LuxRender.)
ISO 168 (Reality 160)
Shutter 0.475 (Reality 1/2 is 0.500)
F Stop 7 (Reality 8)
Gamma 2.34 (In Reality Lights, leave that IBL image default gamma at 1.50)
In LuxRender, the IBL light section- the IBL gain was 1.3750000 (I'm going to keep those simple, all those numbers is a pain. I'd rather tweak the other settings!)
In the Reality Light section, the Y rotation was left at 260 to get side lighting and compare all the IBLs equally.
EDIT: If I want the light to be more orange, can I put that in Environment Color or is that used only when there is no IBL image?
I thought I downloaded and installed all the HDRI from like Malibu etc, but they are not smartibl's or whatever.. as I still only have the 3 presets that came with reality, and have to change them out with my maps, and environment setting in Reality to add the hdr file... someone have a link to ones that install into daz?
also I'm not sure if something should be there, but one of my reality directories inside daz is empty.. and that dir is .. Luxball .. nothing in there..
Novica, it seems there is alot that I dont know, and I still need to read the RUG cover to cover.. I hope it covers which properties inside Daz effect Reality... like you mentioned crush blacks... that's in Iray.. so it's like, wow.. so much to learn... like what it the default render is set to 3delight? , which settings in there would effect Reality, and lets not get into the other renders thatare built in... my head is forsure exploding..
First, go to this post. That's what you should have when you extract Malibu or the second one I just used. In REALITY, in the Lights section, click on CHANGE where the IBL File section is, and select the very first one in that screenshot from my post, the IBL.
2. I mentioned the Crush Blacks, etc because you said you wanted to learn Iray and Iray lighting.
3. REALITY gets the Tone Mapping from REALITY and not the Render Settings in studio. Paolo, correct me if I'm wrong on that.
If you have Iray materials, Reality renders Iray. If they are not Iray materials, you don't get Iray materials. The render option in studio doesn't matter because that is not your renderer, LuxRender is. It recognizes the materials you use.
Okay, keep in mind I've been doing this about a week, and mostly doing LIFE when tornados hit. Here's what I would tell you if I were teaching you Reality, this is MY approach to simplfying it. (My field is teaching btw)
1. Start with a person or simple set, like the rocks above. Zoom in, don't use a big set.
2. In Reality, go to the Camera section and put in the settings from this post as a starting point (for Malibu)
3. In Reality, go to the Lights section and put 260 in Y Rotation so you can play with some good side lighting. Select the Malibu IBL by clicking on Change and locating the folder. TIP: I made a folder called !!!!SmartIBLs. The !!!! keeps it at the top of my folder list. You select the one that says Malibu_Overlook.ibl It will appear in the textbox in Reality for the IBL. YOU DON'T PICK ANYTHING IN THE STUDIO, it goes in REALITY.
4. In Reality, in the Render section, rename your image to whatever you want it to be. If you want a transparent background, check that box.
5. Hit Render Frame. LuxRender (LR) will open.
By default, you will have Auto Linear. In the dropdown switch to Linear. You can use Estimate Settings, but that really ups the ISO and I personally prefer to balance out the brightness with the Shutter Speed and F Stop too. Since we already input the camera settings (my suggestions) in Reality, you shouldn't have to use the Estimate Settings in Linear. Up to you.
6. Tweak the IBL gain first by going to the Light Group (Remember, we are in LR) Put that to 1.3750000. NOW go back to the first tab (Image) and tweak your ISO and, as Paolo suggested, the Shutter Speed. I also play with the F stop.
7. Stop your render when you're happy with it.
Then you can play with materials and learn those. Get down how to light things first though. Let's continue with that:
Say you want to have mesh lights in addition to your IBL. It's recommended to try and use mesh lights instead of spotlights, for more even lighting. Besides, mesh lights have snoods which can be extended to minimize the scattering of light and direct it forward. Snoods=targeting. You can also extend the handles on mesh lights to help direct where the light hits. Handles do NOT render. Snoods do. (If I'm wrong on anything, let me know Paolo.)
8. You find the Reality lights in Content Library Daz Studio Formats>Reality. Easy! When you create lights, they show up in Reality>Lights section. To make each one a separate slider (I already covered this earlier, but will repeat it here) you select the mesh light (let's say you used only mesh) in Reality Lights where it's listed (Name/Type/Group) and then down below, once you click on it, you'll see Light Group and you name it (suggest you use the same name that you gave it over in Studio, like Mesh Front, Mesh LeftSide, etc) then you will see the Group name change back at the top. This means that in LuxRender it will now have it's own slider! Otherwise- ALL YOUR LIGHTS WILL BE ONE BIG SLIDER!
As Paolo says, hope this helps. Ooooh, I'm MP (mini-Paolo!)
I have an Alienware 51 which is fast, so I am going to test some of the Film Response Function options. (In Reality, Camera.) Anyone else ever do that?
Question: In Reality>Lights, for the IBL is that Intensity setting (1.00000) the same as the IBL Gain in LuxRender?
You can't install them into Studio. I mean you could, but you have to know how to package a files set to be included in Studio and that is just not much fun and not necessary.
To use the Smart IBL (sIBL) sets you simply unzip each set in it's own folder and, from Reality's IBL editor, you load the .ibl file whenever you need to use that sIBL in your scene. That's all that you need to do.
You don't need to worry at all with that and there is no such chapter in the RUG, nor there would be a need for it. Just add your characters and then add your lights. If you need to change the materials edit them in the material editor. The less you try to find equivalnces between Studio and Reality the easier and more productive your workflow becomes.
Cheers.
That's funny, and flattering :)
Those are a lot of fun. I use the Optima II, Gold and a couple of others often. They are great to get that luscious film look.