CAR AND BIKE LOVERS THREAD - MARK III
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Not wishing to dissuade you but I would start again before you get too far down the line with what you have done. There are way too many polygons there, they aren't quads and you have a lot of projecting non welded edges. It will look like a car made from crumpled tin foil.
The general way to do a car is start from the side view form the front and back wheel arches based on a circle or cylinder. Link them together and work from there. Don't bother unduly with shut lines in the first instance as you can form them subsequently.
Try to maintain as even a grid as possible with verts and horizontal lines only moving off grid when necessary. That way you can better follow the contours of the car and will get a smoother finish. The fewer polys you can use in the first instance the easier it is to control the shape and smoothness until you need to cut polys to introduce more detail.
Roof, trim, glass, wings, hood, headlights etc should all be one continuous shell differentiated by different sub materials. You only separate doors, hood etc if you want to show them open and then only when the shell is 100% as you want it.
There are many many tutorials on YouTube.
Not wishing to dissuade you but I would start again before you get too far down the line with what you have done. There are way too many polygons there, they aren't quads and you have a lot of projecting non welded edges. It will look like a car made from crumpled tin foil.
The general way to do a car is start from the side view form the front and back wheel arches based on a circle or cylinder. Link them together and work from there. Don't bother unduly with shut lines in the first instance as you can form them subsequently.
Try to maintain as even a grid as possible with verts and horizontal lines only moving off grid when necessary. That way you can better follow the contours of the car and will get a smoother finish. The fewer polys you can use in the first instance the easier it is to control the shape and smoothness until you need to cut polys to introduce more detail.
Roof, trim, glass, wings, hood, headlights etc should all be one continuous shell differentiated by different sub materials. You only separate doors, hood etc if you want to show them open and then only when the shell is 100% as you want it.
There are many many tutorials on YouTube. ok will do thnx but have u downloaded the model 2 actuallly look at it cause the hood is exactly like it is in the bluprints and the real car the grill i would redo but the hood took me all day sunday.
I can see the problem from the jpg's. It will never smooth cleanly and you wont be able to follow the rest of the car.
Save that if you are happy with it as you can always use it as a bonnet/hood subsequently. Start on the side of the car, Use big quads and just get the overall shape of the whole car, you will then see what I am saying.
I can see the problem from the jpg's. It will never smooth cleanly and you wont be able to follow the rest of the car.
Save that if you are happy with it as you can always use it as a bonnet/hood subsequently. Start on the side of the car, Use big quads and just get the overall shape of the whole car, you will then see what I am saying.
ok will try that. the creases in the fenders and door will be the hardest part. but will try that.
That's why you do the whole car as one as otherwise you can't get the line to follow through.
Remember that curves can be formed by smoothing, you don't need every point defined, which is why you start big and subdivide as needed. You can check the smoothed model as you go to see where you need extra detail added.
The overall shape is absolutely key to the project. If you don't get the shape right, and then start detailing, it becomes more and more difficult to address problems the further advanced the model becomes.
That's why you do the whole car as one as otherwise you can't get the line to follow through.
Remember that curves can be formed by smoothing, you don't need every point defined, which is why you start big and subdivide as needed. You can check the smoothed model as you go to see where you need extra detail added.
The overall shape is absolutely key to the project. If you don't get the shape right, and then start detailing, it becomes more and more difficult to address problems the further advanced the model becomes. ok btw heres a link to the tutoral im using. they start with the hood in this tutorial http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hgrix3m1l9k
Well there's often many ways of doing things and, if you want to do it the difficult way, knock yourself out. ;-)
Following on from above in respect of using as few polygons as possible in the initial stages, herewith a 356 (together with a 34,24,36).
It was produced for a project and worked in the form as shown but would benefit from further work one day if I wanted to make it a full asset.
I would suggest you would benefit from getting a model to this stage, at the very minimum, before you start isolating doors and hoods etc.
Also, if you use symetry you only have to model half the car and the other side follows it automatically. Cuts your work time in half.
:-)
Another GTA conversion. This time it's a Vice City car. This is the car I drove in high school only mine was midnight blue with red/white pinstripe then clear coated. Very nice car. Very very fast car.
:-)
Down on the Farm!
Nice
I remember day's on my granddad's farm up before dawn and out till after sundown
Farming hasn't changed much since either, my mother had cousin's who were farmers, in Kansas no doubt!
Agree entirely. Once the model is 100% complete (does that ever happen?) I like to remove the symmetry modifier, do a mirror and then bridge or weld the two halves (subject to if the finished car has a centre line detail). This ensures a smooth line across the roof/screen etc. You'll notice I haven't done that on the 356 above yet.
The down side of joining the two halves is, if you do want to tweak the model subsequently, you have to sides to deal with.
1971 Dodge Demon in Dodge "Go Green" color. A GTA conversion. Poser Pro 2012 render.
Nice!...great reflection on that clearcoat.
The environment...what did you use? Did you experience scan lines? We need help here...lol.
:-)
Outa Gas
Nice Betsy! Love the black.
:-)
I do too, one of my favorite gta conversions is that old 40 Ford Coupe.
Nice!...great reflection on that clearcoat.
The environment...what did you use? Did you experience scan lines? We need help here...lol.
:-)
Thanks music,
For the environment, I used an image is an Equirectangular panorama I found here http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2108/1540985439_c201fd1ef8_o.jpg . Bigger images are better. I used it with the Yosemite set first but wasn't happy with the results so I loaded it on Bagginsbill's Environment-sphere. I'm not sure about scan lines, I've never seen any in Poser.
A 34 Ford!
Very sweet indeed. Lacking the ZZ Top stripe though :-)
@betsy/Cherokee/Renolace/Music. Nice renders. I notice you make reference to GTA conversions. I've got a second hand GTAIV on its way to me and downloaded SparkIV 0.7.0 Beta 1.zip, is that all I need. Are there any tutorials, how 2 sites?
I gave up on the Classic Jag as your GTA conversion had more detail than the one I downloaded.
@John. Nice piece of modeling. Mind if I ask, whats the rational regarding 4 sided polys vs 3 sides. When I've dabbled I found that 3 sided polys don't bend like the 4 sided ones. I mean 3 points will always stay flat even if you move one point, you cant say that about 4 verts.
Looking at the wireframes of some of the most respected PA's here, they have a mix and not all of the polys are 4 sided.
Cheers.
Unfortunately there is no program that will convert GTAIV models. They have to be either San Andreas or Vice City. IV has a different format and no one has a program that will open them to convert to .obj files.
For all who want large HDRI files, this guy is from Japan, but he has over 1,000 files most all at 6000x3000 in size (AROUND 5 MEGS). Just click the pic once and you will see a size button, click on original size and then you can download it. I have tons of them now and they all look superb in envirosphere or Yosimite. Go here and see all 15 pages of them.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/heiwa4126/page1/
enjoy!
:-)
Thanks Music, bugger.
O'well maybe down the line someone might make a new convertor eh! In the meantime I'll have to be on the lookout for San Andreas and Vice City going cheap.
/EDIT Thanks for the HDRI link. Guess I was typing as you posted. OMG, so many.
Here are a few links to get you started:
http://www.gtainside.com/en/download.php?do=cat&id=116
http://www.gta-classics.net/
http://n-gine.com/#!/files/21/1
these are some of the best and the second one is awesome with old cars.
You do NOT have to have the GTA programs to convert a car. Just Zmodeler2, or in Betsy's case Blender.
Hope this helps.
:-)
1969 Camaro SS. I keep having this problem. Whenever I use the envsphere, I get scan lines on the render, not on the car nor the ground plane...only on the envsphere if you look below. I have to take it into photoshop and remove them with the clone stamp. This is in Daz 4.6. I hear this doesn't happen in Poser...why? If anyone knows it would help us DS users greatly. I have posted the original with the scan lines and the edited one I did in photoshop.
Also, whenever I open a Yosimite set, then change the HDRI image on the sphere, it changes visually, but when I render it, it comes back the original image, not the one I changed it too...why? Anyone?
:-)
Those lines look like polygon edges....I don't know why that would be happening, or how to fix it.
A workaround might be to use a backdrop image, something similar to the HDRI and just use the env sphere for GI and reflections.
Good looking Camaro!!!
I'm afraid I don't know aside many program's will triangulate polys in use- A quand triangulates to 2 triangles, other shapes are less predictable. It is almost impossible to "draw" with triangles as the base shape while easy to create another row of quads.
Maintaining continuous loops or lines is also good practice - even more so when skinning bones to deform.